Major and I took a ride up the coast yesterday to the birthplace of his Grandfather.
Beautiful Gaeta.
Gaeta on the map...
I remember Gaeta from when we visited Italy about ten years ago. We were given a lovely tour of the town by a family friend who lives there part of the year. Since Major had also been to the city previously on his own, visiting family, his memories of the town are more plentiful.
We drive around a bit, past the row of apartments on the street along the harbor where his Grandfather was born (probably not in a hospital back then) and raised. We pass ancient historic buildings, some of which look to be in process of being restored. We round the tip of the peninsula to the beach side to find the hotel where we stayed. Serapo. We look for the Navy beach club along the shore...
Smalls has picked this moment to fall asleep. So although we would like to take a walk through town and find something to eat, we decide to take another loop in the car first.
We also need gas. It is Saturday. Gas stations are mostly closed on Sundays - and more importantly, there are no full service workers on Sundays. Full service? Ah, yep, I know that this is a rarity in the states now, but we are using gas coupons here - and we can't put them in the self-service machines. So fill up on Saturday, or wait till Monday.
We also only pay around $4 per gallon, whereas the Italians pay around $10 per gallon (or so).
There is something weird going on.
Generally, there is no problem finding an AGIP (that's the gas station that holds the Government contract), and getting our gas. Today, however, there must be some kind of sale at AGIP. There are lines of cars down the road as if there is about to be a strike. But other gas stations we pass are empty. It's weird. Definitely one of those "I'm in a foreign country" moments, where you would like to just ask - what the heck is going on - but you don't speak the language well enough to be able to understand the answer - so you guess at one another while you drive around scratching your head - looking for another station where there isn't a huge line.
After fueling, and picking our pass-the-time-loop on the dandy TomTom, we head up the hill to take a look at Gaeta from another angle. At the top of a windy path, full of gorgeous panoramic views of the city. She is a real beauty. Well, except, perhaps for the industrial blemishes - apparently a former AGIP refinery...
And then... what would a road trip in Italy be without an edge of what-kind-of-crazy-obstacle-could-possibly-be-around-the-next-corner?
As adventurous roads go, it turns out, this one is worthy of consideration...
we drive through.... somebody's house?...
Immediately followed by a sign that, in a word, makes it clear (to at least one of us), that we must turn around...
Or rather, back up carefully, find a place to precariously turn around without hitting anything, and hope we can find our way back down without incident. Apparently, the CRV is wider than two meters (note to self)....
I sarcastically remind Major that I actually don't mind if he gets into any scrapes, since it's not my car anymore... because I had to SELL MY CAR to my husband for ONE DOLLAR in order to register it on base. No need to ruin a beautiful day with that awesome discussion right now...
And then, out of nowhere, this red light... on a two-way street. Which, on closer inspection, is clearly not wide enough for two cars... better than the *honk* and hope nobody is coming method, I suppose...
And then... we discover that (thank God) the breaks on the CRV work extremely well - as a toddler dashes out into the middle of the street.
We were both ready to park the car.
We take a leisurely stroll past outdoor markets on a beautiful tree-lined path.
And wander into one of my favorite areas of Gaeta - a walking section where there are hundreds of apartments stacked on top of shops, bars, and galleries.
Today there is a festival of independent artists taking place on this avenue, so we have a lot to look at on our stroll (sorry no pics of the artwork since that would probably not be cool with the artists)...
The *side* streets are lined with motorcycles and bicycles - all of the cars have to park outside of these walking areas...
We arrive upon an outdoor fish market,
which among other things (that used to swim in the sea),
has an array of beautiful little lobsters.
Deciding that it is time to find something to eat for dinner, we begrudgingly acknowledge that it is just five in the evening, and no decent restaurants will be open at this early of an hour. After a short search confirms our suspicions, we find a tavola calda. This is a buffet of sorts - where hot food is pre-made and re-heated upon request. In the US we would avoid this kind of food, but here, in Italy, where it is possible that a sandwich from a gas station bar may be one of the best you have encountered, we have discovered that tavola caldas are quick, easy, cheap, and oh-so-tasty.
We order two calzone-type-sandwiches, one with mushroom, ham and cheese, the other with eggplant, and sit at the picnic tables outside the restaurant. I battle mosquitos, feed the baby, and attempt the sandwich one-handed.
We continue our walk, post sandwich, and keep our eyes peeled for a gelateria. Our friend T has told us what to look for. I knew about the brown banana gelato rule, but she tells us that if the gelato looks unusually fluffy and piled high, or suspiciously colorful, that it has been made with stabilizers and artificial ingredients, and is not as authentic (or yummy). I stick my head into a few shops along the way to check the fluffiness factor.
We head towards the older part of the city, past the port.
Where we pick out a new boat for our favorite captain, "Docstar."
I always wondered why the Major's grandfather never returned to Gaeta, it seems like such a gorgeous place to visit. Today, I stumble upon this nugget on Wikipedia...
"After the king dismissed Mussolini in the summer of 1943, the latter was initially taken via Gaeta to the island prison of Ponza. After Italy surrendered to the Allies, however, the town's fortunes began to decline. Recognizing its strategic importance, and fearful of an Allied landing in the area, German troops occupied the city and expelled most of the population. The zone of exclusion began with a five-kilometre border from the historical city centre. Soon after, however, the population was expelled even beyond this point. The Gaetani were finally ordered to leave the area completely. Those who could not were placed in a concentration camp, and a few were taken to Germany."
Wikipedia on Gaeta
As I always tell my students, Wikipedia is a fantastic starting point, but it's not an official source, so I take this with a grain of salt... but, I can't help but to be sombered by the information. Who would want to return to a place that had been desecrated in such a way? Now I have more questions for our family friend when we next see him.
There is still a strong military presence in Gaeta today. It is the home of the US Navy's USS Mount Whitney.
She's in the background of this pic...
Last time we visited there was no US Navy ship in port, but the Amerigo Vespucci was in the harbor. That is the Italian Navy's tall ship.
I met the Vespucci when she toured Baltimore's harbor many years ago during fleet week. That ship is about as beautiful as she gets... I'll be hunting for her whenever we are in the area. I haven't actually toured the ship yet, but I have seen her sparkling chandeliers and unbelievable woodwork from peeking inside as I walked alongside her in Baltimore's harbor.
Ironic, isn't it, that America is named after one of Italy's most celebrated men. Yet we celebrate Christopher Columbus day (I hear my father shaking his head in agreement)... ah but I digress...
It starts to rain.
We follow the lead of the locals, and finally find a gelateria named after a penguin, that looks like a good balance of quality product and not-too-crowded. I order what instantly becomes my new favorite - croccantino al rhum. Ah yeah, you hear that right - rum.
As we head back to the car, rapidly disappearing gelatos in hand, we pass a soggy puppet show booth.
I can't wait to bring Smalls back on a drier occasion to see the show.
On our drive home, the rain lifts for a sunset double rainbow.
It has been a beautiful day.
