tiny acid trip

Since the Major has a training class to attend in Oberammergau, Germany, we decide to make a bit of an adventure out of the trip north.  We schedule an aggressive itinerary  with a different stop each night - hoping that Smalls will be a willing participant.

First stop is the country of San Marino.

If you have never heard of this country, well, that's probably because, like the Vatican, it's really a part of Italy.  We marvel at the ability of a tiny (24 square miles) country to remain autonomous.

Without reservation, I can say that it's the cutest little country I have ever seen.

Getting to the top of the mountain where the country is situated, it becomes clearer that the defense of this nation was a priority, and likely resulted in its current independent state.

Well, that and the vampire population, apparently...

Ravenna beckoned us with her churchly mosaics spanning four different styles of architecture.

Friendly faces accompany us on our walking tour...

 

Where tiny shards of glass twinkle stories of religious fervor.

    

Dizzying heights reveal scenes of struggle and redemption.

Admiring the handiwork works up an appetite.  We press on to Brisighella where we hear rumors of a truffle festival.  Our efforts are rewarded...

We investigate new fruits we have never seen before...

  

Then the Major sways my previous stance on preferring black over white truffles with a panzerotto di tartufo bianco.

Our appetites whetted, we press on towards what some consider the stomach of Italy, Bologna.

But since we were passing through Modena, we decide to make a pit stop for the infamous Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena.

When we visited the country many years ago, we had a fantastic tour of a house that makes balsamic vinegar.  We learned all about the making this unbelievable product, and developed a deep respect for the process.  If you are wondering about the hype, this kind of vinegar takes a minimum of 12 years to produce, and it tastes almost nothing like the kinds you generally find on the shelves in the US.

Not remembering where we went before, we got the address for a place to visit in Modena from friends.  When we showed up, we realized that it was the same place we had been before.

We were very excited to revisit the same family and taste the precious treat.

Arriving in Bologna, we have pretty much only one thing on our mind: gelato.  Although we are wearing winter gear, we have been advised that there is some excellent ice cream in the vicinity.  Our source does not disappoint.  Suddenly it's a warm summer day in the middle of winter...

Milan was the final Italian destination, and although most would probably head for the fashion, our destination was La Scala, the famed opera house.

From the outside the building is pretty ordinary, but the inside is breathtaking.  No photos allowed, but here is a neat old postcard that shows the boxes we got to tour...  

Seeing an opera here is definitely on our list of things to do...

We wander around the fantastic duomo

I get completely creeped out by the crypts and death masks...

But the interior of the church is awe-inspiring...

And do our share of window shopping...

We find a gelateria, and Smalls eats mine in rapid fashion before I can even document its existence...

Crossing the border, we make Lucerne, Switzerland our next destination.  We take a stroll on the medieval bridge...

And head to Zurich, where we are meeting friends for dinner...

In Zurich, we are treated to a personal tour of the city, 

  

and a fantastic dinner in a restaurant over 600 years old...

In the morning we head to another miniature country, but one more familiar, Lichtenstein.

As we make our way up another mountain, to yet another tiny principality, the clouds remain behind us, creating a foggy lake below...

But we don't dally too long - the biergartens of Munich are calling...

vecchia funghi

This weekend we made it out to Caserta, to see the Royal Palace, and the old town...

The palace was as expected.  Old, interesting frescoes, crazy-looking furniture...  a theatre, which was not open, and an expansive garden.  I look forward to finding an event to attend at the theatre, and bringing a picnic lunch for an afternoon exploring the gardens.

Caserta Vecchia is one of those ancient tiny towns on a hill...

With mind-blowing architecture...

A requisite torre...

Or two...

And a gorgeous little church....

With at least one more-or-less disturbing relic...

I am in love with the large imposing doors...

And creative openings...

Some with a forbidden past...

You can just feel the history seeping through the stones...

I imagine a world where there are no cars...

Work is done by hand...

We are drawn into a cafe where the display of treats gives us pause for difficult decisions...

The most stressful part of the trip complete, we took our treasure on the road...

Since we were out in that direction, we pressed on a bit further to find a chestnut festival.

Chestnuts are a well known product of this area, and we figured that we should learn about some of the typical ways the little nuggets are prepared.

I have to be honest.

I am not particularly a fan of the chestnut.

But I try to have an open mind.

In usual Italian style, I found them to be delicious.

Perhaps it was the enchanting atmosphere of the festival, set against hills flocked with autumnal trees...

Or the warmth of the open fires decking the walking paths...

But in one short afternoon I became quite fond of the nutty treats.

It's difficult to count the varieties presented - everything from fresh off the tree...

To roasted,

and baked...

Some were masking in other forms...  (that's chestnut formed into mushrooms)...

To candied and dried...  oh, and of course... alcoholic...

Creme de chestnut anyone?  We passed on that option, but did bring home a bottle of crema di baba...  It's hard to describe the flavor, but its namesake is an extremely popular dessert from the area.  You can try some and form your own opinion when you stop by...

And then there were the complimentary foods...

Sausages, Wine, and other local specialties...

Including the illustrious truffle.

Ah tartufo...  you mischievous devil...

This little black mushroom (there are white ones too, but I prefer the black) has a unique taste and smell that you will never forget once you experience it...

I celebrated the chestnut festival by dining on what amounted to an open-face grilled cheese

Yes people, that is caciocavallo cheese, roasting over a fire.

With truffle shavings on top.

Heavenly...

I was completely transported to this foreign land of festivity when I see a familiar face...

Smalls is completely nonplussed.  Her Switzerland response seems to indicate that she too thinks these characters are ever-so-slightly out of place...

We wind our way out of town, through the hills, and towards the sunset over the Mediterranean, our stomachs full from our adventurous journey.

At home we use the small truffle we bought at the festival to make a pasta dish.

The animal print interior of the little stinky prize made it ever more delightful.

We marvel that Smalls is developing quite the expensive taste in food.

She licks the pasta clean.