blood orange

I felt completely relieved when we returned from our New Years trip to Sicily.

That feeling of "having survived" something.  The three of us, successfully reunited with our belongings...

... everything (and everyone) in one piece.

And with the bonus of a couple of new recipes...

Blood Orange Salad

Funny thing, vacations...  We dream about how fun and relaxing they will be.

In our family, I have finally begun to come-to-terms... fun very rarely comes with relaxing.

It occurs to me after we are unloaded from the trip, a strong desire to stay in one spot for a while setting in...

We have just returned from an adventure.

No wonder I feel in need of a vacation.

More on that later...

Let's rewind.

Major says...  "let's take a drive down the coast".

I say...  "isn't Sicily down there?"

And thus it begins...

We skip Amalfi this trip since the Major and I have already visited that part of the country (albiet many moons ago), the infamous coast is a mere day-trip away...  we'll save it for a sunny spring weekend perhaps...

We instead jog over to the coast once we pass Salerno to take a look-see at Maratea - a resort town tucked into a peaceful cove.

Maratea

We imagine throngs of fancy people milling the streets of the bitsy city in high season, and agree that the tiny winding roads approaching the city make the Amalfi coast look like a superhighway...

On the Calabrian Riviera

We bob in and out of coastal towns for a couple of hours till we hit our first formal destination of Tropea - a town perched on the edge of a cliff, overlooking the volcano Stromboli.

While we search out a nice place for dinner, we stumble upon a gathering in the center of town.  By the looks of it, the entire town has shown up to see a traditional dance presentation, and we are treated to a Tropean Tarantella.

Tropean Tarantella

What a captivating surprise.  But we are starving, so we press on.  Finally discovering only two open restaurants hiding amongst the dozens we pass shuttered closed.

Red Tuna Carpaccio salad with Red Tropean Onions

Tropea is known for red onions of all things, and the culinary creations offered do not disappoint.  Being on the coast, there is also a plethora of fruits from the sea...   we are especially pleased with the Mussels, although we discover later that they are probably from Spain...  not that Spanish food is a problem, but we do try to eat local whenever possible.  In this case, we ate the local preparation - peppered mussels - or rather, mussels in a black pepper sauce...

The next day, we decide to do some car-sightseeing of the area, discovering even smaller, windier roads in a mountainous territory inland from Tropea.

This rough terrain has been dominated by a mafia family known as 'Ndrangheta.  As we twist and turn through the changing landscape, it becomes clear that our short jaunt will actually take hours - as the switchbacks and hairpin turns present themselves in rapid succession... slowing our pace to a crawl.

Calabrian Winding Roads

It's a wonder the mafia find this territory worthy of habitation...  or perhaps, it's the idea of keeping others out that is appealing.  We see only a handful of cars in the hours drive.

What we do find are breathtaking panoramic views of valleys and mountains, and herds of livestock... with accompanying shepherds (a sight I am unexpectedly thrilled by).

Already exhausted by a day of weaving and winding, we return to Tropea and plan our departure for the Island we could see in the distance most of the day - Sicilia.

****

We drive on board the ferry for the twenty-minute ride to Sicily, among busses, semi-trucks, and a seemingly endless line of cars.

Then a ramp is activated, and more autos drive on.  For Italy, this process is amazingly quick, smooth, and simple.  There is even a ferry option that involves train cars rolling directly onto a boat, and then back onto the tracks on the island.  Perhaps we will try that option next time.

Taormina is another resort town, with a wealth of upscale shops on its singular main street.  Capped by one of the most amazing ancient sites I have ever visited.  I suppose the effect is compounded with the experience of having described this kind of theatre to hundreds of my students over the years...

Teatro Greco di Taormina

We sit for a moment, absorbing the view of Mt. Etna and the Mediterranean Sea.  The spirit of the ancient grounds brings about a hungry desire - for lunch...   So we look for a reasonable place - and settle on a small establishment tucked away just past the neighborhood juggler off the main square... 

Taormina Performance Art

Although it is generally rare for us to be disappointed when we eat out in Italy, in this case, we have discovered a real gem.  The blood orange salad (above), mixed fish appetizer,

pasta alla Norma (with eggplant, ricotta, and smoked cheese curds), 

and pasta alla sarde (sardines).

These typical Sicilian dishes set a high bar for the duration of our trip.  We are simultaneously pleased with the delectable house white wine...  which is slightly fizzy, dry and pairs perfectly with the citrus and seafood offerings.

I had no idea that blood oranges were only grown on the side of Mt. Etna.  One of those unexplainable feats of nature, although people have tried to grow these trees in other parts of the world, they have never been successful.

For the rest of our trip food plays a central role (oh, who are we kidding, this is always the case!) - but sometimes the food is more exciting - and in Sicily this is definitely the case.  Ingredients we have become used to -

Sepia Ink Pasta

but used in new and delightful ways.

Typical Sicilian Appetizer

On the West coast of the island, we search for traces of African and Arabian influence...  we find couscous and squid stuffed with grapes...  

among the more common veal marsala (drizzled with balsamic).

On every adventure we scour local markets...

In search of new and unusual food items - in this case we were rewarded with one called "cardi" - apparently a type of cardoon.  

Unfortunately we did not have a kitchen at our disposal to try the cardoon, but the Major got a lesson from the man selling the vegetable, so we are prepared when we next cross paths.

We did bring home some sea salt from Trapani.

Along with the culinary lessons, we chase history intensely.  

From the valley of eight ancient temples in Agrigento, 

the ancient Greek ruins in Syracuse, 

to the gold Basilica in Monreale...

with the notable Arabian designed facade.

The unbelievable three-dimensional baroque offerings in Palermo...

Fairytale castles in the misty medieval town of Erice -

where I even find a sweet baby Jesus that doesn't give me the heebeejeebies...

Baroque, baroque, and more baroque in Ragusa, 

and Noto...

An unexpectedly mystical elephant monument in the centro storico of Catania...

And finally, a wine-shaped cave as tribute to the Greek God of wine and theatre - Dionysus.

As we criss-cross the island, Smalls napping in her tiny auto-chariot, or carried snugly on her daddy's chest, we marvel that she probably won't remember a thing about all of the amazing things we are experiencing...  

We struggle against our urges to try to "see everything"... but really..., it's already too late.  

We're exhausted - ready to go "home", to sleep in our own bed, to not have the pressure of "seeing all the things" and eating out for every meal.

We've been in Italy for almost six months now...  and we are constantly reminded by strangers to slow down - "piano, piano" they say...  

I do think that somehow the Italians are more keenly aware that this journey we are on is not a sprint...

But we are learning.

spirited

It's possible that nothing will put you in the holiday spirit faster than a Bavarian Christmas market and a cup of hot mulled wine (most especially when it's below freezing outside - even better when it's actually snowing...)

But how about these challengers?

Wandering the streets, listening to live music in Mozart's hometown of Salzburg, Austria.

Shopping for medieval accoutrements...

And cheering on a life-sized marionette battle

in the Castle on the hill... 

where there is a gorgeous view of the Danube.

Now, if castles are your thing, then visiting the one Disney "borrowed" from Neuschwanstein might do the trick...

Or the "other one down the hill"...

Or perhaps a room of solid gold?  On the second floor of Augsburg, Germany's city hall.

Where you can pop in to defrost from the merry scene below...

Or perhaps a Christmas story told through marionettes in windows around the city?  

Augsburg has a real performance aspect to its market, celebrating the fact that they claim that this is the oldest Christmas market in Europe...

You could take a stroll by the river Inn, and check out the painted ladies of Innsbruck, Austria...

Where you can count down the days with the city advent calendar...

If lights excite you..., perhaps make a stop in Vienna, Austria...

Where each of the streets is uniquely electrified.

In Bratislava, Slovakia you can ice skate in the old town...

Or listen to a Croatian children's choir nestled by city hall...

In Budapest, Hungary you can sample Transylvanian soup...

Sample other, even more adventurous "holiday?" culinary fare...

Or opt for the extremely addictive (and probably safer) grilled sweet cakes...

Peer at Pest through the royal walls in Buda...

And sip a tiny coffee, while your freeze your butsky off overlooking the neverending Danube...

In Zagreb, Croatia a night stroll in old town reveals a picturesque village...

Where the shopping area is as bustling as any of the larger cities...

Although, their outdoor seating does not look quite as welcoming...

Perhaps you'd like to see the snow from a distance?  How about a view from the tower in the castle on top of Ljubljana, Slovenia?

Where you can also level the playing field by practicing the Dance of Death...

If religion is what moves you, there are mystical scenes a plenty...

Augsburg

And stained glass that will inspire spontaneous caroling...

Augsburg

Or at least a hallelujah or two...

Vienna

And finally, don't forget to pick up a chocolate santa...  or reindeer...

While you nosh, you can say a holiday prayer to the gastronomical gods...

weizen men

It's no secret that I have an affinity for wheat beer.  Specifically hefeweizen.

Although the Major knows of my attraction to this fermented friend, I think the Christmarket destinations have sufficiently thrown him off the trail I have mapped throughout Bavaria…

Hello there meine frostigen freund...

I first experienced one of these beers, when my roommate introduced us at the Peculiar Pub in NYC.  And then I had one on tap (rather, from the barrel) in Berlin a couple of years later...

In Bavaria, the beer is called Weißbier.  One of the kings in that category, Paulaner, is from Munich, Germany, the birthplace of the mother of all brewfests - Octoberfest.  Needless to say, I have been looking forward to visiting this part of the world for quite some time.

Truly some of the most interesting architecture we have seen thus far on our trip lives in the old town of Munich. 

From the old town gates and arches,

to the clock towers,

and churches…

And then we stumble upon a small museum dedicated to one of the Major’s favorite hobbies – putting food on the table…

The coolest display at the hunting museum may have been the sleighs...

I also note, in this museum, that the Germans have, despite what some people may think… quite a sense of humor…

Yes..., an entire display of animals acting "out of character".  

Moving right along…

Possibly my favorite piece is the mechanical clock that is part of the City Hall building.

We got to see the dancers in action, and they are quite a treat.

Unfortunately, we discover that are missing the Christmas market in Munich by 24 hours...  we are a day early.

Among the market preparations we see signs for gluhwine, and wonder how it will stand up to the vin brule we had at the truffle festival…  My Swedish friends always made glog on Christmas Eve, and that kind of warm spiced wine always puts me in a Christmassy spirit…

Have I mentioned that it is flipping cold up here, and a little heat would do nicely…

It is suspiciously easy to get the Major into a brewpub.

We pick one of the oldest in the area, Augustiner...

I think the Major may be on to me...

A selection of German sausages, a pig knuckle (seriously delicious), amazing sauerkraut, and Apfelstrudel (of course).

The warm food and cold beer do not disappoint.  We're feeling the spirit of Bavaria. 

Our destination for this trip is Oberammergau, Germany, home of the centuries-old Passion Play.  One of the most famous theatre destinations in the world.  Unfortunately for us, this is not a year for Passion Play performances, however I’m excited to see what else the area has to offer…  and I, ahem, uh, have heard that there may be breweries near by…

In a “It’s a Small World Afterall” kind of coincidence, one of the Major’s closest buddies’ wives’ sisters lives in the next town over.  You may have heard of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, home of the 1936 winter Olympics.  So, as a result of their hospitality, we accidentally might have indulged in two Thanksgiving dinners this year.  What a beautiful accident that was!  Not only were we lucky enough to be invited to an incredible dinner, we got to meet several couples living in the area.  There really is no better way to get to know a place than to hang out with the locals…

Before the training course begins, we squeeze in a modest hike with our new friends...

The Germans really have a remarkable ability to combine good food and fun.  From the bottom of the small mountain we see a flag flying above, letting us know that the hiking/skiing pub is open...

Game on.